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No. 608115]. Patented July 26, I898.

a. H. m-monn & w. F. DIA L. MACHINE FDR SEWING WITH HEM 0R OPEN WORK STITCH.

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N0. 608,51. Patented July 26, I898.

G. H. DIMOND 8:. W.. F. DIAL. MACHINE FOR SEWING WITH HEM 0R OPEN WORK STITCH.

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N0. 608,I5l. V Patented July 26, I898. G. H. DIMOND &. W'. F. DIAL. MACHINE-FOR SEWING WITH HEM DR OPEN WORK STITCH.

"Application filed Sept. 14, 1897.)

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$2 fiwlzivr mam Erma N-IE GEORGEH. DIMOND AND WILBUR F. DIAL, OF BRIDGEPORT, CONNECTICUT, ASSIGNORS TO THE WHEELER 6: WILSON MANUFACTURING COMPANY,

or sAME PLACE.

MACHINE FOR SEWING WITH HEM OR OPEN- WORK STITCH.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 608,151, dated July 26, 1898.

. Application filed September 14,1897 Serial No.651,6'71. (No'modeL) To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that we, GEORGE H. DIMoNn and WILBUR F. DIAL, of Bridgeport, county of Fairfield, State of Connecticut, have invented an Improvement in Machines for Sewing with I-Iem or Open-fork Stitch, of which the following description, in connection with the accompanying drawings, is a specification, like letters on the drawings representing like parts.

This invention has for its object to improve the construction of that class of sewing-machine employed to sew and make the hem or open-work stitch in handkerchiefs, pillowcases, sheets, 850.

In this our invention we employ a piercer composed of a pointed finger grooved at its face in the vertical plane in which the needle IIworks, said piercer being carried by a piercerar. Y

WVhen the first stitch of the figure used to make the hem or open-workstitch is to be made, said stitch being preferably a threestitch figure, the material having just been fed and the needle and piercer being in their elevated position, the piercer descends and penetrates that part of the material of single thickness next the edge of the hem and makes a hole in the said material and remains there distending said hole while the needle descends through the grooved face of the piercer and the hole made in the material by it, the thread of the needle being interlocked below the material, after which the needle rises, thus making one stitch of the figure. Then the needle-bar and needle are moved laterally and the needle is made to descend through the edge of the hem, where the needle-thread is again caught, and the needle rises, making the second stitch of the figure, and having risen the needle-bar and needle are again moved laterally, putting the needle in position to again descend in the groove of the piercer and pass through the same hole in the material through which it passed at the first descent before referred to, the needle-thread in its second descent through the same hole having its thread locked, after which it rises, thus completing the third figure of the stitch, after which the piercer rises and the feed takes place for a new stitch, and then the piercer descends and the needle bar and needle again descend through the groove in the piercer, the needle-bar and needle not having had any lateral movement imparted to it between its third rise and its fourth descent, and the operation is repeated. The piercer is carried by a bar having bearings in the face-plate of the machine, and the piercer itself is oifset to extend over one branch of the presser-foot, and the downturned inner end of the piercer is grooved, the needle entering this groove. The piercer has its up and down movements imparted to it by a path-cam, so that said up and down strokes are exactly regulated in extent. feed takes place after every third stitch, and the feed is always forward in one direction, the back feed heretofore common in this class of machine being omitted, thus greatly reducing shocks due to the back movement of the feed when the machine is being run rapidly, doing away with puckering or gathering the hem and making it very much easier and less tiresome for the operator to perform the work.

Figure 1 of the drawings represents in side elevation, partially broken out, a sufiioient portion of a sewing-machine of the Wheeler & Wilson type, to which our improvements have been added, to enable our invention to be understood. Fig. 2 is a top or plan View of the machine shown in Fig. 1. Fig. 3 is a front end elevation of the machine; Fig. 4, details showing the shape of the path-cam which controls the forward feeding movement of the usual feeding device. Fig. 5 shows the shape of the lifting-cam for raising the feed-bar at the proper time. Fig. 6 shows the needle and piercer enlarged and in crosssection. Fig. 7 shows a piece of material with the three-stitch figure which this machine is adapted to make in the production of the hemstitch.

The cloth-plate or Work-support A, the overhanging arm A, having suitable bearings for the needle-bar-actuatin g crank-shaft A having atits front end a grooved cam-hub A to actuate the take-up A the link A connected with the crank-pin of said hub and fitting a Herein the stud A, extended from a collar fast on the needle-bar A the needle of, the needle-bar gate A pivoted at A said gate having attached to it a link A provided at one end with an adjustable stud A to enter a groove B in an arm B, extended from a horizontal shaft B said arm having a roller or other stud B to enter a path-cam in a cam-plate B said cam-plate being rotated by a pinion w, a beveled intermediate B, mounted on a stud B of a plate 13 secured to the overhanging arm by suitable screws 13*, said intermediate bevel being engaged by a bevel-gear B secured to the needle-bar-actuating shaft A by means of a suitable screw B the lower shaft 0, having suitable cranks which are engaged.

by connecting-rods O the feed rockershaft 0 having an arm 0 which is connected to one end of the usual feeding device O said rock-shaft having a second arm (3 to which is jointed a link C'Qhaving aroller or other stud entering a segmental groove in an arm O of a rock-shaft 0 having at its op-. posite end another arm C provided with a stud or finger 0 having a roller or otherstud entering a path-cam in a toothed feed-driving cam D, said driving-cam being actuated from a pinion D, fast on the under shaft 0, said shaft in practice operating from its front end any usual complemental stitch-formin g mechanism (not shown) cooperating with the needle a carried by the needle-bar, and the feedlifting cam D (shown separately in Fig. 5) for operating the rock-shaft D employed to govern the position vertically of the feeding device to engage the material when it is to be fed and to let it drop to be moved back under the material after the feeding operation, are and may be all substantially as common in the WVheeler & Wilson sewing-machine, represented in United States Patent No. 479,739, dated July 23, 1892, and application Serial No. 448,193, filed October 8, 1892, with the exception ofthe shape of the pathcams in the cam D and the cam B The needle-bar-actuating shaft A has been provided herein with a second beveled pinion E, which engages a beveled pinion E, mounted on a stud E said beveled pinion having connected with it a toothed pinion E which engages and rotates a toothed gear E having a path-cam E said path-cam receiving in it a roller or other stud E of a lever E pivoted at E said lever having a rounded end E and entering a rounded notch in a block F, secured in a slot in the upper end of the piercer-carrier bar F This piercercarrier bar has its bearings in suitable lugs F, extended inwardly from the face-plate F and at its lower end said bar has adj ustably connected to it, by means of a suitable setscrew a, a piercer a, said piercer being shaped substantially as shown in Fig. 1, where it is shown as bent to overlap the presser-foot b of the pair of presser-feet b b, said 'presserfeet being attached to a suitable cross-bar b extended from the presser-foot bar I), of usual construction, it being normally held down by a spring 12 said presser-feet acting to keep the material down on the cloth-plate and on the feed as the latter rises. The face of this piercer next the needle is grooved, as best shown in Fig. 6, so that the needle when it descends to penetrate the material of single thickness near the hem enters this groove, the piercer having previously descended and pierced the material, making a hole therein and keeping the said hole distended while the needle passes through the distended hole, as has been described.

Referring to Fig. 7, n represents material of single thickness with a hem a folded thereon, the edge ofv the hem being designated as 11 The piercer first descends through the material of single thickness at W, and then the needle enters the groove of the piercer and passes through the material and its thread is locked. The needle then rises, the needle-gate is moved laterally or to the right, and the needle is again made to descend, this time, however, penetrating the hem at the point a and the loop of needle-thread is locked. Then the needle bar again rises, withdrawing the needle from the material. The needle-bar gate is again moved in the opposite direction, putting the needle directly over the hole a previously entered by it in the material of single thickness, and while the piercer yet remains in said material of single thickness the needle again enters the groove of the piercer and passes through the material of single thickness in the same hole previously made by it and its needle-thread is again locked, thus completing the stitch hereinbefore described, after which the needle and piercer rise in the material and the feed takes place in the direction of the arrow. The figure produced is a three-stitch figure.

Having described our invention, what we claim, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is

1. In a sewing-machine for hemstitch or open-work stitching, the following instrumentalities, viz: a needle-bar gate, means to move it laterally; a needle-bar having an eyepointed needle and mounted in said gate; means to reciprocate said needle-bar in said gate; a piercer-carrying bar having an attached grooved piercer; suitable bearings for said piercer-carrying bar; a path-cam, means to actuate it; devices intermediate said cam and said piercer-carrying bar to reciprocate it, that said piercer may penetrate the material of single thickness off the edge of the hem and remain in the material while the needle bar is moving to cause its needle to descend through the said material in the groove of the piercer, then rise, move laterally, and descend through the hem at one side of the piercer, then rise and move back laterally into position over the material of single thickness, and descend again through the said material of single thickness in the groove of the piercer yet in the said material, and then together with the piercer rise from the material; and feeding mechanism to move the material between one and the next stitch, substantially as described.

2. In a sewing-machine for hemstitching,.a needle-bar gate, means to move it laterally; a needle-bar in said gate, said needle-bar being provided with an eye-pointed needle; means to move said needle-bar vertically; a piercer-carrying bar provided with a piercer; means to positively actuate said piercer-carrying bar independently of the needle-bar, to cause said piercer to penetrate the material in advance of the descent of theneedle and to remain in the said material, holding it in place and distending the hole therein while the needle and its bar make its descents and ascents to complete the hemstitch figure, one of said descents being in the hem and the other of said descents being in the material of single thickness off the hem and in the hole distended by the piercer, the piercer being thereafter automatically raised and removed from the material after the needle has descended a plurality of times in the same hole oif the edge of the hem, substantially as described.

3. In a sewing-machine for hemstitching, a needle-bar gate, a needlerbar in said gate, a needle carried by said bar, a rotatable shaft, connections between it and said needle-bar to reciprocate it uniformly; a gate-cam, means to actuate it, and intermediate devices between said gate-cam and said gate to move the gate laterally, holding it in one position while the needle-bar makes two full strokes, and then in another position while the needle-bar makes one full stroke; combined with a piercer-carrying bar, an attached piercer, an independent piercer-barcam, means to actuate it, means between said piercer-bar cam and said piercer-carrying bar to actuate the same and cause said piercer to enter the material and enlarge a hole for the passage of a needle, substantially as described.

4. In a sewing-machine for hemstitching, a needle-bar gate, a needle-bar in said gate, a needle carried by said bar, a rotatable shaft,

the gate laterally, holding it in one position while the needle-bar makes two full strokes, and then in another position while the needle-bar makes one full stroke; combined with a piercer-carrying bar, an attached piercer, an independent piercer-bar cam, means to actuate it, means between said piercer-bar cam and said piercer-carrying bar to actuate the same and cause said piercer to enter the material and enlarge a hole for the passage of a needle, said piercer remaining in said material throughout three complete downstrokes of the needle-bar; and feeding mechanism acting only to feed the material in a forward direction after each stitch, substantially as described. I

5. In a machine for hemstitehing, a piercercarryingbar having a piercer-groove at one side, a piercer-bar cam, means to actuate it, and devices between said cam and piercercarrying bar to move said piercer-carrying bar a less number of times than the needlebar, combined with a needle-bar having an eye-pointed needle, means to reciprocate said needle-bar and to move it laterally, that the needle may penetrate the material at the hem, and off the hem, said needle in its descents to penetrate the material oif the hem entering the groove of said piercer and being guided thereby in its approach to and while passing through the material, substantially as described.

In testimony whereof We have signed our names to this specification in the presence of two subscribing witnesses.

GEORGE H. DIMONlD.

WILBUR F. DIAL.

Witnesses for Geo. I-I. Dimond:

ISAAC HOLDEN, GEO. OoRNwELL. Witnesses for W. F. Dial:

GEO. W. GREGORY, LAURA MANIX. 

